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It's less about stirring and more about excited movement and interaction with the hot wok's surface.

But that was just the beginning.A lunch at the house of photographer Dewandra Djelantik featured 10 sambal made by his mother, including one with green chiles that had been braised in the drippings from chicken grilled over coconut husks.. Once upon a time, Djelantik hadn't even really liked sambal.

But after he got married, his mother-in-law kept feeding him spicy dishes, and his state of mind shifted: "I said to my wife, 'Why haven't we made any spicy food at home yet?''Because you don't like any spicy food!'"He grew to love it so much that he helped organize a local chile festival starting in 2010, which today features 156 different sambal, some of them semi-mythical, like one from Bali's Payangan district made with grilled eel bones.

I searched for it but never found it.. "That kind of sambal is not in the market," Djelantik said."It's only in the family.".

In Ubud, Bali, I found a shop called Hot Mama Sambal that sold sauces from all over the country, including a West Javanese one with tiny anchovies.

In the rugged but placid mountains near the northeastern tip of Sulawesi, I tasted a sambal cakalang of chiles, shallots, garlic, tomatoes, and smoked skipjack tuna, all deep-fried together, ground, and then refried to absorb the oil.Let hamburger patties stand at room temperature while grill is preheating.

Shape pimentón cheese into 4 (3-inch) disks (about 1/4 cup each).Press a dimple into the center of each hamburger patty to prevent shrinking when cooking, and season evenly with salt and pepper.

Place patties on oiled grates; grill, uncovered, until lightly charred, 3 to 4 minutes.Flip patties, and top each with 1 pimentón cheese disk and 1 crispy jamón slice.