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Roll dough into a 12-inch circle on a lightly floured surface.

George Rose/Getty Images."When I won, I didn't even know what it was," says Goin, who was named a Best New Chef in 1999 for her cuisine at Lucques in Los Angeles.

"But it catapulted me onto the national stage, and people wanted to put me on TV, and I was asked to write cookbooks, and I opened A.O.C.It put me on this trajectory that ended up being my career.".Gavin Kaysen, who was named a Best New Chef in 2007 for his work at El Bizcocho in San Diego, remembers the speed with which his life changed after the award.

"I'd been working in kitchens for over 10 years," says Kaysen, "and then within 14 months of winning Best New Chef, I'd done Bocuse d'Or,.The Next Iron Chef.

, and was named Rising Star Chef at the James Beard Foundation Awards.".

Before being named Best New Chefs in 2009, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo used the award as a motivator when they were in the weeds during dinner service at their nose-to-tail restaurant, Animal, in Los Angeles.Browning is a fundamental part of the ideal braising technique for meat, helping create flavor through the Maillard reaction.

The delicious fond (the brown bits leftover in the pan) will be dislodged while cooking the pancetta and vegetables, with the flavor ultimately permeating throughout the braising liquid when you add the wine.Here, the browning step also begins the process of rendering the fat under the skin of the chicken legs and gives them an attractive golden color that translates beautifully in the final dish.

Skip it and the chicken will be noticeably paler, and you'll run the risk of flabby skin.. Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen.Carmellini calls for Peppadew peppers, a brand of pickled sweet piquanté peppers.